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Technical Difficulty (Class):
Prerequisite Skills:
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Client/Guide Ratio:
2:1
Includes:
Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required).
Does not include:
Personal items on gear list.
Mt. Sill, The Swiss Arête III 5.7
3 Day
This route has been referred to as one of the most classic routes in the High Sierra. It is in a high alpine setting with good quality rock and provides excellent views along the way and from the summit.
Cost:
$795 ea/2 people
$1200/1 person
Dates:
Aug 13-15, 2010
(Fri-Sun)
The Approach:
From Glacier Lodge and Third Lake beneath Temple Crag, our group usually leaves the trail and ascends the Gayley Gully to our high camp at the edge of the Palisade Glacier. This usually requires about 7-8 hours of ascent with over 4,000' of elevation gain in one long day.
The Climb:
From high camp, we cross the Palisade Glacier and ascend steep, sometimes loose rock to Glacier Notch (13,100')before crossing the L-shaped couloir to the base of the Swiss Arête.
We climb the beautiful backbone of the arête to the summit. This is usually done in 6-7 pitches with quite pleasant climbing along the way.
The Descent:
From the summit, we usually descend the standard east face route of Mt. Sill down the northwest ridge to a section of class 4 that we often rappell to the notch of Apex Peak. From here, we descend the L-shaped couloir back to Glacier Notch and our descent back to camp and the descent to Glacier Lodge. This climb can be done in 2 long days by a fast party of 2 or 3 days is recommended for a party of 3.
Preparation:
One, preferrably 2 days of prior acclimatization up to 8,000' or higher is recommended for this ascent. Prepare for a variety of terrain from class 1 to 5.7.
Questions about this climb?
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