Technical Difficulty (Class):
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Prerequisite Skills:
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Physical Condition:
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Client/Guide Ratio: 3:1

Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required).

Does not include:
Personal items on gear list.

Operating on a non-discriminating basis under Special Use Permit, Inyo National Forest.

Tioga Pass

The Dana Couloir Class 4 ice     1 Day

Probably one of the Sierra's most popular "first" ice couloirs. It's pleasant, user friendly and great for building skills for multi-pitch ice routes.

$220 each/3 people
July 29, 2017   (Sat)
Aug 12, 2017   (Sat)
Aug 27, 2017   (Sun)
Sep 16, 2017   (Sat)
Oct 7, 2017   (Sat)

The Approach:
From the west end of Tioga Lake (9,638'), we follow the climber's trail up Glacier Canyon past beautiful azure blue tarns and lakes to the base of the Dana Glacier (about 3 hrs).

The Climb:
After traversing the glacier, we approach the bergschrund, the last and often largest crevasse before the steeper couloir above. After negociating the bergschrund, we climb, usually near the right wall or center of the couloir for about 8 to 10 pitches, 40°, depending on where the guide elects to place the belays. From the top of the couloir, we scramble class 2-3 rock to the summit of Mt. Dana (13,053').

The Descent:
From the summit, we descend the northwest slope along the class 2 back to the trailhead (about 2 hrs from the summit).

Cardiovascular conditioning: prepare with at least 3-4, 40 min+ aerobic workouts per week including hill running, biking, or hard-hill hiking with a pack and ski poles. Pre-climb acclimatization recommended to include hiking and sleeping at 8,000' or higher 1 or 2 days before the climb.

  • Previous off-trail hiking (5 miles+)
  • Experience with ice axe and crampons
  • Belayed climbing with rope and harness

Questions about this climb?

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