Includes:
Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required).
Does not include:
Personal items on gear list. Boat taxi $10 roundtrip (when available).
Operating on a non-discriminating basis under Special Use Permit, Inyo National Forest.
Mt. Conness (12,590'), The North Ridge II 5.61 Day
This fantastic route may be the absolute favorite among the ASI Guides. It reminds us of a crescendoing symphony that just gets better as it goes. The day begins with a pleasant, easy hike in spectacular alpine terrain above Saddlebag Lake. After passing beautiful alpine lakes, we get a view of the North East face of Mt. Conness, the Conness Glacier and the long, serpentine ridge forming the right skyline.
The route begins on Class 2, but sharp, distinct backbone ridge. The route continues to get progressively more interesting until the Second Tower and the two rappells into the final notch. Superb climbing on excellent High Sierra rock completes the route with moves bringing you right to the summit.
The beautiful descent down to Carnegie Institute and a spotted car makes for a complete loop roundtrip day. This is a truly fantastic, high quality climb easily accessible in one day from Tioga Pass.
The Approach:
From Saddlebag Lake (10,087'), we either hike around the westshore or take the boat taxi (when available) to the north end. From here, we follow a spectacular alpine drainage to the highest of the Conness Lakes, then the saddle between North Peak and Mt. Conness.
The Climb:
From the saddle, we begin the long, beautiful ridge climbing increasingly interesting rock to a high point in the ridge. From here, we downclimb (5.6) lower or rappell a steep drop-off into a prominant notch. From the notch, we climb the continuously spectacular ridge that steepens right to the high point of the ridge on excellent quality rock.
The Descent:
From the summit, we'll retrace our steps to the Conness Plateau and cross it to descend the East Ridge route. With good route finding, a class 2 route can be found by connecting the appropriate lines of weakness back to the boat taxi at Saddle bag Lake (2 1/2 hrs.).
Preparation:
Cardiovascular conditioning: prepare with at least 3-4, 40 min+ aerobic workouts per week including hill running, biking, or hard-hill hiking with a pack and ski poles. Pre-climb acclimatization recommended to include hiking and sleeping at 8,000' or higher 1 or 2 days before the climb.
Prerequisites:
Expereince climbing 5.6 or greater with a top-rope
Previous rappeling experience
Previous multi-pitch climbing recommended
Mountain hiking
Very good physical condition prepared for a long day of off-trail hiking, scrambling, 4th and 5th class rock climbing at elevations above 12,000' (see physical condition description)
Equipment List
Recommended Reading
Prior & Follow-up ASI Courses
Weather Forecast
Road Conditions
Leave No Trace
Trip Insurance
