Ski Mountaineering Guide
Bela G. Vadasz
IFMGA Certified Guide
August 6, 2009
Friends of ASI
August is upon us and with it the finest month for enjoying the Lake Tahoe area and High Sierra. While the valleys are sure to see several days in the high 90s, even the 100s, higher elevations will remain comfortably warm in the 80s and 90s during the day, with refreshingly cool temps in the 40s and 50s at night.
This makes for excellent climbing around Donner Pass, Lover's Leap, and throughout the High Sierra. Because the snow only melted away in the last few weeks, it's like spring time in the higher elevations with an amazing array of beautiful wildflowers blooming in alpine meadows. With the snow gone in all but the steepest, darkest northern cracks, climbs on Sierra granite are in perfect condition.
Conditions are still good for climbing Mt. Shasta, especially if you're ready for some glacier travel with an approach from the North.
If you haven't climbed before, or you need a refresher, join us on our Intro To Rock Climbing special. Otherwise, look over our 9-Step Progression and find the course that's best for you to improve your climbing skill. If you don't see what you're looking for, don't hesitate to give us a call. We look forward to climbing with you.
Shasta Climb for Cystic Fibrosis
In mid-July Logan Talbott led members of the Holm family to the summit of Shasta who were using the climb to help raise awareness of Cystic Fibrosis by raising money for the CF Foundation. Their son, Taylor Holm has cystic fibrosis. In the past two years he has been hospitalized twice with lung infections. This made his goal of climbing to Shasta's 14,162' summit especially challenging.
After summitting he said, "it was the hardest thing I've ever done, both physically and mentally." A short video of their climb is available below:
Kurt Holm, Taylor's father said, "Logan was exceptional. He was very engaging, knowledgeable, and skillful."
On the flip side, Logan Talbott was initially leery about Taylor's chances for summitting. On first impression he noticed Taylor coughed a lot more than normal people. Even though he slowed down as they climbed higher, he actually did better up high than most climbers do. Logan pointed out, "Taylor was mentally way stronger and tougher than most clients. Even though he has cystic fibrosis, he's on a football team so he's used to suffering."
To read more about Taylor, or make a contribution to CFF, click here.
Rock Climbing: Climber's Self Rescue
Do you know what to do if your partner is seriously hurt in a leader fall...several pitches up? In this one-day workshop we teach self-rescue techniques improvising with just the gear you normally take on a climb. ASI covers the best anchoring methods, along with raising and lowering systems for a one-on-one situation. This is a must for all climbers!
TR: North Ridge, Lone Pine Peak, III 5.5
Then there's the couple who only recently became interested in climbing-- Albert & Zulema. After a successful climb to the summit of Mt. Shasta with ASI Guide Logan Talbott, they decided they were ready for some rock in the Eastern Sierra. ASI Guide Tim Dobbins led them up the north ridge of Lone Pine peak. From Hwy. 395 Lone Pine Peak is one of the biggest looking massifs along the entire Sierran East Side, even though it only stands 12,944' high.
The magnitude of the north ridge route was a bit overwhelming, challenging their skills and determination. According to Albert, "It was a very, very long ridge. Longer and harder than we expected, but well worth it in the end."
Indeed, the North Ridge of Lone Pine peak is one of the longest routes in the Sierra. It is complex by virtue of the myriad options available and serves as an example of the inconsistency in California's grading system. Although the unusual length magnifies the difficulty, it also allows climbers to steep themselves in the spectacular scenery it provides.
After an extra bivvy they persevered and stood on the summit after 13 hours of climbing on the second day. The picture above shows the last, convoluted 800-foot line to the top.
We look forward to skiing with you and helping you achieve your goals. If you can't find the answer to a question on our website, don't hesitate to give us a call.
Bela & Mimi Vadasz
Alpine Skills International 530-582-9170