Technical Difficulty (Class):
 
Mountain Skill Rating:
Physical Condition:
Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1
Includes:
Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required).
Does not include:
Personal items on gear list.
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North Peak, North Couloirs, class 4-5 ice 1 Day
The north face of North Peak has a small pocket glacier and has 3 snow/ice couloirs ascending the rock face. Our favorite is the left couloir that presents sustained 50° ice climbing later in the season.
Cost: $260 each/2 people
$450/1 person
Plus Guide Transportation arrangement
Dates:
Choose your own date
Sept 22nd UPDATE: The Righ Hand Couloir is in excellent condition - top to bottom ice.
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The Approach:
From Saddlebag Lake, we either hike around the westshore or take the boat taxi (when available) across to the north end of the lake. From here, we follow the trail to McAbe Pass (11,600') to the north until we break off to approach the Northwest Ridge.
The Climb:
Once past the bergschrund, usually passed on the right, the climbing remains interesting with its relatively sustained 50° snow/ice slope for about 6 rope lengths. Belays are often from rock and ice along the way. From the top of the left couloir, the summit is optional.
The Descent:
From the top of the couloir or the summit, it's a fairly quick descent back to the beautiful alpine lakes above Saddlebag Lake. We use the boat taxi or the walk around the westshore back to the trailhead.
Preparation:
At least one day of acclimatization around 10,000' prior to the climb is recommended.
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