Technical Difficulty (Class):
Mountain Skill Rating:
Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1
Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required).
Does not include:
Personal items on gear list.
|Clyde Minaret (12,281'), South Face IV 5.8 2 Day
This steep and exhilarating route has been considered a long line classic of the High Sierra.
$650 ea/2 people
From Red's Meadow (7,500'), we follow the trail to Minaret Lake, then to Cecil Lake (elevation), then traverse to the base of the route (about 4 hrs.)
We traverse up and right (5.7) acorss the face to the top of a small tower. From the highest ledges we climb up and right for 3 pitches over 5.7 corners to a big ledge. A difficult traverse leads into a prominant corner. We climb the corner through a blocky roof (5.8) and the face above. This leads to a square-cut ledge.
We stay in the dihedral (5.8) to a notch in the skyline ridge. From here, a large ledge leads to the left across the face. Several hundred feet of moderate climbing, up to 5.7 leads to the summit.
We follow the exposed ledges of the southwest face toward Amphitheater Lake. Class 3 then descend the Ken-Clyde Couloir. This usually requires some rappells between the moat of ice and rock. From the base of the route, we retrace our steps back to the trailhead. This climb usually takes 2 days.
1 or 2 days of acclimatization above 8,000' are recommended prior to this climb. Be prepared for stout climbing on polished, innious rock. It's a bit different than the more common Sierra granite.