Technical Difficulty (Class):
Mountain Skill Rating:
Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1
Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required).
Does not include:
Personal items on gear list.
|Bear Creek Spire, North ArÍte III 5.8 2 Day
The North ArÍte presents an impressive granite buttress with good climbing. Though it has a couple of 5.8 sections, much of the climbing is easier for most of the route.
$545 ea/2 people
From the trailhead at Little Lakes Valley (10,255'), an easy follow and pleasant trail leads past a string of beautiful lakes to Gem Lakes. From here, the route steepens cross country to Dade Lake (11,600'), the best place to camp if doing the route in two days.
From Dade Lake, we ascend talus and often a bit of steep, firm snow to the very toe of the rock buttress. The first pitch ascends 5.6 slabs to a 5.8 hand crack. The second pitch follows flakes up and right, then left and is 5.7. The next two pitches are easy 5.2, 4th class and end over the top of a pedestal. Next is a 5.8 offwith on the left or a 5.10 thin crack variation on the right. The sixth pitch traverses left, then up around a tower. The seventh and eighth pitch climbs 5.4 knobs, then a 4th class step onto the ArÍte. The ninth pitch climbs along the upper arete to the summit block.
From near the summit, a steep rappell is practical before the class 2 descent of the remainder of the Ulrichs Route, then back to Dade Lake. From here, we retrace our original approach route.
Class 1-5.8 with a steep rappell from the summit.