Technical Difficulty (Class):
 
Mountain Skill Rating:
Physical Condition:
Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1
Includes:
Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required).
Does not include:
Personal items on gear list.
|
|
North Palisade (14,242'), The U-Notch Couloir 3 Day
III Class 4 snow/ice, 5.6 rock
The U-Notch Couloir to the summit of North Palisade may arguably be the classic route of the High Sierra. First climbed in 1928 by the infamous pioneer, Norman Clyde.
Cost: $750 each/2 people
$1200/1 person
Dates:
The Approach:
From Glacier Lodge (7,800'), we begin along a relatively easy graded trail to Third Lake (10,250'). From here, we usually choose the route that leaves the trail and ascends the direct Gayley Gully to our high camp at the edge of the Palisade Glacier (12,150'). This requires about 7-8 hours of ascent with over 4,000' of elevation gain in one long day.
The Climb:
From high camp at the edge of the Palisade Glacier, we ascend the largest glacier in the High Sierra to the bergschrund, the last crevasse before the steeper couloir above. After we find the best crossing of the bergschrund we begin climbing the 40°-43° snow or ice filled couloir, often finding a good belay anchor from rock on the couloir's right edge. After several pitches, we pass a peninsula of rock on the left and choose the final finger of snow/ice to the top of the U-Notch.
From the U-Notch, we cache our ice axe and crampons and begin the ascent of the chimney variation. This consists of two pitches of steep rock, the second being a bit more strenuous than the first with an awkward feel. If we don't like the looks of the chimney variation we can choose the Clyde Variation dropping down the westside to the ledge system, traversing up and left, then following a chute back up and right. This variation is class 4. From the top of the chimney, we follow the southest arête to a huge bowl, then the final class 4 move to the summit block.
The Descent:
We retrace almost the entire ascent with 2 rappells down the chimney, then several rappells or lowers down the couloir itself. From the glacier, we retrace our ascent back to Glacier Lodge.
Preparation:
Preferrably 2 days of prior acclimatization up to 8,000' or higher is recommended for this ascent. Prepare for a variety of terrain from class 1 to 5.6.
|
|
 Equipment List
|
